Provence Village-Hopping Made Easy (Without a Week-Long Car Rental)
The view from Rue Andre Lhote in the hilltop village of Gordes
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I’m not much of a driver, and initially I was planning on taking this trip solo. So, is there a way to visit Provence without needing to drive? The thought of driving in France felt intimidating, with me traveling alone.
Most travel guides will tell you that a car is essential for exploring Provence - and to some extent, they're right. The hilltop villages, lavender fields, and winding country roads seem tailor-made for a leisurely drive. But here's what they don't always mention: much of Provence is surprisingly accessible by public transport, and you can see a good portion of the region without a car at all. My sister Laura decided to join this Provence adventure, so while I planned to utilize public transportation for many of our destinations, she would be able to handle the limited driving in our itinerary with my navigation assistance.
Views from our drives in the Luberon countryside
CHOOSING OUR HOME BASE
Our Provence adventure started with a layover in Paris. We flew into Charles de Gaulle and gave ourselves a full day to wander the city - enough time to shake off the jet lag and remember why Paris never gets old. The next morning, we made our way to the train station, Gare de Lyon, and settled in for the two and a half hour train ride south to Avignon, watching the landscape shift from urban sprawl to rolling countryside as we left the capital behind. The train ride flew by fairly quickly, and soon we were lugging our bags across the cobblestone streets of Avignon in search of our B&B.
I’d been able to see a bit of Avignon on a cruise job a few years back, and decided that either Aix-en-Provence or Avignon would make a good base camp. We chose Avignon primarily because of its train station and proximity to villages easily accessible by public transport. Avignon felt closer to the destinations on our list, so the decision was easy. The regional bus and train network is reliable and affordable, and it completely eliminates the stress of navigating narrow village streets or hunting for elusive parking spots.
It was only when we wanted to venture deeper into the Luberon - to those impossibly charming hilltop villages like Gordes, Lacoste, and Menerbes - that we picked up a rental car. These smaller villages are almost impossible to reach by bus. And while we were initially both intimidated by the thought of driving, the roads were mostly empty of traffic, and the routes quite direct.
In hindsight, would I stay in Avignon again? While the location worked well for our plan of utilizing public transport, I can't help but wonder if spending some of our nights in a smaller, more Provençal town might have offered a richer experience. We likely would have split our stay between Gordes on the nights we had a rental car, and maybe Aix-en-Provence, or Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, for our public transport days.
AVIGNON
1. Calvet Museum | 2. Facade of Hotel des Taillades | 3. Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs | 4. Palais des Papes
Revisiting Avignon years after a prior work trip, I was struck by how much the city had changed - bigger, busier, more hectic. The fortified city has clearly evolved into a major destination, its medieval streets now packed with cafés, boutiques, and crowds exploring its storied past.
Winding through Avignon's labyrinth of narrow alleys, you constantly stumble upon hidden squares that open up unexpectedly - small pockets of calm amid the medieval streetscape. The old town is encircled by remarkably well-preserved ramparts, their walls creating a dramatic boundary between the historic center and the modern world beyond.
The Palais des Papes dominates Avignon, a massive fortress-palace that reflects the city's extraordinary history. For most of the 14th century, this was the center of Catholicism - seven popes ruled here when Rome became too dangerous. The building feels more like a medieval stronghold than a religious residence, with thick stone walls and austere halls emphasizing power over piety.
Then there's the Pont d'Avignon, the iconic half-bridge jutting into the Rhône. Built in the 12th century to span the river, only four of its original 22 arches survived centuries of floods. It ends abruptly mid-water - a picturesque reminder of time's impact.
For a different kind of atmosphere, Les Halles d'Avignon delivers. This covered market concentrates all the energy of Provence into one space - local produce, charcuterie, and regional specialties stacked high at bustling stalls. While I typically favor outdoor markets, the enclosed setting creates an intensity of color, aroma, and atmosphere that's undeniably engaging.
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to making Avignon a base camp for exploring Provence here.
BONNIEUX
1. Rue Voltaire | 2. Facade of building on Ancien chemin de Lourmarin | 3. Building on Ancien chemin de Lourmarin as viewed from above on Avenue Philippe de Girard | 4. Eglise Haute (Old Church) and its clock tower
Bonnieux was at the top of my list, and I was genuinely excited to explore the village. We arrived just in time for lunch and made our way slowly uphill from the parking area we'd found. My immediate impression was that Bonnieux felt decidedly more tourist-oriented than some of the other villages we'd visited. The streets were busier, the storefronts more polished, and there was a certain commercialized charm that, while pleasant enough, lacked the quiet authenticity of places like Menerbes. Still, the village has its appeal - perched dramatically on a hillside with stunning views across the valley. The village is built vertically, and getting to the top means climbing narrow, winding streets - the climb to the old church at the summit is worth the effort. Bonnieux may cater to crowds, but it does so with undeniable beauty.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Friday.
TRAVEL
By Train from Avignon Centre to Avignon TGV; rental car at Avignon TGV from Hertz.
GORDES
1. Rue Jean Deyrolles | 2. Rue Des Tanneurs | 3. The view from Gordes Lookout | 4. Rue Jean Deyrolles
Gordes is Provence's most photographed village. Perched up on a dramatic clifftop in the Luberon, its honey-colored stone buildings cascade down the hillside in a stunning tumble of terraces and archways, creating one of the most iconic views in all of France. Laura felt that Gordes was her favorite of the villages we visited. Gordes is more of a town that you wander rather than a village with a checklist of sights. By far the prettiest street that we found was Rue Jean Deyrolle, tucked away not far from the main square. While the main square felt like a tourist destination, a few streets along, you can easily find yourself alone on quite residential lanes with some of the prettiest houses tucked into gardens. In our initial planning, we chose to not stay in Gordes, even though it was something we considered. But the thought of hauling luggage into unknown territory in a hilltop village dissuaded us. Don’t let it! Gordes does have parking, and you can easily avoid any steep uphill treks if you book accordingly.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Tuesday.
TRAVEL
By Train from Avignon Centre to Avignon TGV; rental car at Avignon TGV from Hertz.
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting Gordes here.
LACOSTE
1. The old Boulangerie on Rue Saint-Trophime | 2. SCAD Welcome Center on Rue Saint-Trophime | 3. Wandering side streets in Lacoste | 4. Cafe de France in the Place de la Mairie
Lacoste was my favorite village. I could not stop taking photos, as every turn unveiled another beautiful photo opportunity. Lacoste is primarily the home of SCAD’s (the Savannah College of Art and Design) Provence campus. There is little in the way of shopping or dining – this is a creative college campus occupying beautifully restored buildings that have been converted into classrooms, housing, and studios. From a photography standpoint, there are few annoying signs or tourist draws to mar the beautiful pedestrian-only cobblestone alleys, making for some incredible photo ops. This is simply a lovely village to spend some time wandering the cobblestone lanes.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on
TRAVEL
By Train from Avignon Centre to Avignon TGV; rental car at Avignon TGV from Hertz.
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting Lacoste here.
LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE
1. Lantern of the Deceased at the Saint-Vincent Church | 2. View from Place Louis Jou on Rue de la Calade | 3. The iron cross at Saint-Vincent Church | 4. Shop on Rue de la Calade
More tourist destination than actual lived-in village, Les Baux is home to only 22 residents. It’s compact in size but large in historical sites to see. The medieval stone architecture creates a dramatic skyline against the rocky outcrop, with Renaissance-era mansions, Romanesque chapels, and the imposing castle ruins crowning the summit. You’ll find typical Provençal shopping options, offering everything from Lavender to olive trees. The village is pedestrian-only and easily walkable, save for the initial upwards hike from the bus stop/parking area. Because Les Baux is not a working village but a destination, the sites here are more in the way of churches and historic ruins tucked in amongst shops and restaurants - ancient archways, carved stone doorways, and fortified walls that tell the story of its strategic medieval past.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Thursday.
TRAVEL
Bus from Avignon Pem Gare Routière station via Zou! Line 707: 1.25 hours - € 2,10 one way
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting Les Baux-de-Provence here.
L’ISLE-SUR-LE-SORGUE
1. Garden seating at restaurant Le Jardin du Quai | 2. Ivy-covered house on the canal as seen from Quai Jean Jaurès | 3. Outdoor pots at The Appendix at the Village des Antiquaires de la Gare | 4. Restaurant Le Carre d'Herbes
We chose market day, Sunday, to visit, as the town is touted as the place to go for antique hunting. We were looking forward to this bustling antique market and scheduled our week around visiting here on Sunday. This was our most disappointing day. L’Isle-sur-le-Sorgue is definitely a shopping destination, so if you like second-hand or antique shopping, there is a draw. And while yes, I do like shopping, I prefer local artisan goods over flea market finds, which were a good majority of the offerings at the market. L’Isle-sur-le-Sorgue did have its moments. But as a photogenic destination, this town was more shopping than charm, and the market was insanely busy and crowded.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Sunday
TRAVEL
By Train from Avignon Centre station: 1/2 hour
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue here.
MÉNERBES
1. Rue Raoul St Raymond Sylvestre | 2. Gated entry to Maison Dora Maar | 3. Building with faded sign on Rue Raoul St Raymond Sylvestre | 4. Rue Cornille
One of France's Plus Beaux Villages de France, Ménerbes is a pleasant mix of grand and humble. Beautiful stone mansions intermingle with modest houses on little winding alleys. Starting at the bottom of the village with small cafes and boutique shopping, you climb slowly upwards past sixteenth- and seventeenth-century stone houses, eventually reaching the main square at the top of the village.
Perched along a limestone ridge, Ménerbes offers sweeping views of the Luberon Valley that seem to stretch endlessly in every direction. The village has a quiet, unhurried feel. It's the kind of place where you can easily lose an afternoon wandering, pausing to admire a hidden courtyard or lingering over a glass of wine while watching village life unfold around you.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Thursday.
TRAVEL
By Train from Avignon Centre to Avignon TGV; rental car at Avignon TGV from Hertz.
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting Ménerbes here.
OPPEDE-LE-VIEUX
1. Maison Gabrielli and views of the olive grove | 2. L'Oppidum on Rue des Écoles | 3. Old tower home ruins | 4. Maison Gabrielli as seen from the main square
Oppede is a very humble village and seems lost in time. It almost has an abandoned feeling to it. There is one square surrounded by a few cafes and small shops, although nothing was open on our visit. The square opens up to a few streets, which feel overlooked, with ruins that melt into the vegetation. But everything here is simply beautiful, even the ruins. With a castle and church perched above the village, those are the main sites, but I found the cobblestone lanes more picturesque. We were lucky to find the Olive Trail with it’s magnificent view of Maison Gabrielli perched on a cliff above the olive groves. If you’re looking for shopping, this is not the place to find it. Oppede instead offers a step back in time and a quiet retreat. And some of the most beautiful photo opportunities!
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Saturday.
TRAVEL
By Train from Avignon Centre to Avignon TGV; rental car at Avignon TGV from Hertz.
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting Oppede-le-Vieux here.
SAINT-RÉMY-DE-PROVENCE
1. Maison D’Isidore on Rue Isidore Gilles | 2. On Rue Carnot you’ll find this gated doorway with a sundial on the face of the building bearing the words “Il Est Toujours L’Heure de ne Ruen Faire” which translates to “It’s always the time to do nothing” | 3. Follow the Van Gough Trail, and you’ll find the location for the painting Les Paveurs on Boulevard Mirabeau | 4. Hôtel et Restaurant de Tourrel entrance off of Rue Carnot
Saint-Rémy reminded me a bit of Bonnieux - more tourist-oriented in nature, though on a larger scale. This is a town built for shopping, with tree-lined streets filled with boutiques, galleries, antique shops, and specialty stores that seem designed to lure visitors in. There's a polished, almost curated quality to it all, as if Saint-Rémy knows exactly what travelers are looking for and delivers it with practiced charm. The weekly market is a draw in itself, sprawling through the town center with stalls selling everything from lavender sachets to local honey and handmade linens.
The town is steeped in history - it's the birthplace of Nostradamus and was home to Vincent van Gogh during one of his most prolific periods. You can visit the Saint-Paul de Mausole monastery, where Van Gogh stayed and painted some of his most famous works, including "The Starry Night." The Van Gogh Trail (or "Promenade dans l'Univers de Van Gogh") is a self-guided walking route in and around St Remy that takes you to the locations where Vincent van Gogh painted some of his most iconic works during his year-long stay at the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum in 1889-1890. Along the trail, you'll find reproductions of Van Gogh's paintings mounted on easels at the exact spots where he set up his own easel to paint.
If you're looking to shop, eat well, and soak up a more cosmopolitan slice of Provence, Saint-Rémy delivers and can easily be visited on your way to - or back from - Les Baux.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Wednesday.
TRAVEL
Bus from Avignon Pem Gare Routière station via Zou! Line 707 to Saint Remy Bibliothèque: 1/2 hour - € 2,10 one way
UZÈS
1. Rue de Calade | 2. Fountain on Rue Saint Etienne | 3. Rooftops of Uzès as seen from the King’s Tower of the Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit | 4. Rue Entre les Tours
Uzès was a huge surprise. I’d read about the town on a few blog posts, but it was originally on the back burner as a place we’d go if we had extra time. I’m so glad we fit it in. Uzes is not a very frequented destination on the tourist circuit. But that’s what made it charming. With lots of beautiful streets to wander and a very lovely shaded main square, a visit to Uzès made for a peaceful and relaxed day away from the hordes of tourists. This is a real working French town, not a Disneyfied stop on a tourist bucketlist. While not technically part of Provence, Uzès sits in the Gard department of southern France, just across the border in the Occitanie region - close enough that it fits naturally into a Provence itinerary.
MARKET DAY
In season, the market is held on Saturday.
TRAVEL
Bus from Avignon Pem Gare Routière station via Zou! Line 115: 1 hour - € 2,10 one way
MORE INFO
You can read our complete guide to visiting Uzès here.
VILLENEUVE-LÈS-AVIGNON
1. Rue du Grand Bourquet | 2. Le Prieuré entry door | 3. Hôtel Le Prieuré Baumanière | 4. Rue des Récollets
Just across the Rhône from Avignon, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon was where cardinals built their retreats during the 14th-century papal period. The main draw is Fort Saint-André, an imposing 14th-century fortress with twin towers and panoramic views over Avignon and the Rhône Valley. The climb is steep but worth it.
In the village below, the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction - one of France's largest charterhouses - offers peaceful cloisters and Gothic architecture without Avignon's crowds. The Tour Philippe le Bel, a defensive tower from the medieval bridge, rounds out the historical sites. Beyond the monuments, the compact village itself rewards aimless wandering - narrow lanes, stone facades, quiet squares, and a lived-in charm that feels refreshingly authentic after Avignon's tourist buzz.
Just a quick 10 minutes outside of Avignon, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon was much smaller than anticipated. We took the bus on Market day and arrived at a very tiny market selling mostly vintage housewares, located right at the bus stop. It was more flea market than fresh market with a small number of vendors, so we did a quick perusal and then moved on. We wandered the town a bit and stopped for a lovely lunch in the square. There’s a pretty steep climb up from the bus stop, so be prepared. I had contemplated staying in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon at the Relais and Chateaux property Le Prieuré Baumanière. But proximity to Avignon trains and buses ultimately swayed the decision to stay in Avignon instead. We detoured to check out the hotel and instantly regretted not staying there ourselves.
MARKET DAY
Provençal market takes place on Thursdays; Saturdays are reserved for the antique market.
TRAVEL
Bus from Avignon: Porte De L'oulle via lio Line 717 to Villeneuve-Lès-Avignon - Office De Tourisme - 10 minutes - € 2,10 one way
Taxi to Avignon: 10 minutes after 30 minute wait - € 25 one way
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
GENERAL INFORMATION
Languages Spoken: French, although almost everyone speaks English. Be sure to ask, parlez-vous anglais? (do you speak Engligh?). A friendly bonjour (hello) goes a long way when entering shops.
Currency: Euro (€)
Restaurant Tipping: Tipping at restaurants is not expected but appreciated. Simply round up to the nearest euro and be prepared to tip in cash.
Taxi Tipping: For a typical ride, round up to the next euro on the fare.
TOURISM INFORMATION
Les Plus Beaux Villages de France
Information on the Most Beautiful Villages of France.
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Tourism Board
Lots of helpful information for visiting Provence, Alpes and the Côte d’Azur.
Vaucluse Provence Attractivité
AVIGNON
Office de Tourisme D’avignon
You can find a collection of maps and brochures for download here.
BONNIEUX
Pays d’Apt Luberon Tourisme
GORDES
Ville De Gordes
LACOSTE
Pays d’Apt Luberon Tourisme
LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE
Les Baux-de-Provence Tourist Office
The tourist office is located at the Porte Mage entrance to the village in the Maison du Roy. They were extremely helpful and friendly. For a very helpful map of the village and the fortress, you can find that here.
L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE
Isle sur la Sorgue Tourism
MÉNERBES
Ménerbes Town Hall
Pays d’Apt Luberon Tourisme
Pays d’Apt Luberon Tourisme offers a very handy, downloadable village map.
OPPEDE-LE-VIEUX
Oppede Tourism
Oppede Tourism offers information on several hiking trails around the villages.
UZÈS
Uzès Town Hall
Destination Pays d’Uzès Pont du Gard
A PDF brochure and map is available here. And a PDF map is available here. Additional downloads of a cycling and biking map, an accommodation guide, and a tourist brochure are available here.
HOW DID WE TRAVEL?
FLIGHT
American Airlines: Flagship business class lie flat seats for 110,000 miles PP RT plus $152 in taxes from Orlando MCO to Paris CDG with a layover in Charlotte CLT
LOUNGES
Orlando MCO: The Club at MCO - used Priority Pass for free access
Orlando MCO: American Airlines Admirals Club - used business class ticket for free access
Charlotte CLT: American Express Centurion Lounge - used American Express Platinum card for free access
Paris CDG: Extime Lounge - used business class ticket for free access
Charlotte CLT: American Airlines Admirals Club - used business class ticket for free access
TRAIN
Avignon TGV: from Paris Garre Lyon to Avignon - cash booking $247 PP RT
ACCOMMODATIONS
Paris: Maison Astor Paris, Curio Collection by Hilton - free using 77,000 Hilton points redemption for one night
Avignon: “Unnamed” B&B - free using 32,369 Capital One points plus my $300 annual Capital One Venture X credit card annual travel benefit for three nights, booked through Capital One Travel
Avignon: Jardins de Baracane - cash booking
Paris: Hôtel du Louvre, in The Unbound Collection by Hyatt - free using 30,000 Hyatt points redemption for one night - transfer of American Express points to Hyatt
