Uzès: An Authentic French Town That's Escaped the Tourists
View from the King’s Tower of the Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit, the Bishop’s Tower, and tiled roofs of Uzès - photo by Laura Woodard
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Visiting Provence with my sister Laura, we had a list of must-see villages and towns. And then a list of “if we have time, maybe” destinations. We’d returned from a day visiting the adorable but very touristy village of Le Beaux, and walking past the Avignon Tourism office, we decided to pop inside and inquire about some dining options as well as some of those “maybe” destinations. The helpful young woman praised Uzès but cautioned that it wasn't much of a tourist destination. That sounded perfect to us.
1. View from Rue de l'Évêché | 2. 12 Rue du Dr Blanchard | 3. Tile rooftop view from the King’s Tower - photo by Laura Woodard | 4. Rue Saint-Théodorit
1. Fountain on Rue Saint-Etienne | 2. Rue Gaston Chauvet | 3. Pavilion Jean Racine at 7 Bd des Alliés | 4. Rue Entre les Tours
Uzès is easily reached by about a hour bus ride. It was actually lovely seeing a little of the countryside. We arrived at the outskirts of town and walked a little further than we could have, not realizing we were getting off at a further stop than necessary.
Uzès is not in Provence, but in the Gard Département of the Region of Occitanie, just across the Rhône River from the heart of Provence, and about 20 miles from Avignon and 16 miles from Nîmes. Arriving in Uzès, you'll cross Boulevard Gambetta, the one-way ring road lined with plane trees that encircles the medieval center. Beyond it, narrow streets and shaded squares wind past elegant 17th and 18th-century mansions.
1. Rue de la Grande Bourgade | 2. Planters in a window | 3. Lobster linguine at La Fontaine Restaurant in Place aux Herbes | 4. Rue Port Royal
Our first stop was the Place aux Herbes, the main square. Place aux Herbes is a sprawling cobblestone square bordered on three sides by golden stone arcades. These vaulted arches shelter the terraces of shops and restaurants below. Restaurants and cafes ring the square, where trees provide shade around a central fountain. Laura and I stopped for a leisurely beverage, enjoying the shade and beauty of the square, before venturing off to explore the cobblestone lanes.
1. Caisse d'Epargne Bank on D979 | 2. Rue de la Calade | 3. Looking the opposite direction on Rue de la Calade | 4. Bishop's Tower, located on Rue de Amiral de Brueys
Uzès possesses all the beauty of southern France without the commercialization that has consumed many of the Provençal towns. Its main draw is authenticity - a genuine working town rather than a tourist destination. You won't find souvenir shops or crowds here, just locals going about their daily lives in one of the region's rare uncommercial gems, with an occasional tourist.
Yet it matched the beauty of any tourist hotspot on my original itinerary. Laura and I fell into our usual rhythm - wandering aimlessly, breathing in the fresh air, snapping photos, and exploring without an agenda. We stumbled upon both the Medieval Garden of Uzès and the King's Tower. The garden offered a peaceful respite from the stone medieval streets, its terraced layout showcasing Mediterranean and regional flora in shaded, quiet corners that were perfect for a rest. The King's Tower offers panoramic views of Uzès from the top of its 100-step climb. Laura made the ascent while I stayed below - heights aren't my thing. Before leaving, grab a refreshing licorice-lemongrass herbal tea (included in the admission) and find shade under one of the mulberry trees.
1. Anna Karin Atelier Céramique | 2. Rue du Coin | 3. Rue Entre les Tours | 4. Anna Karin Atelier Céramique
1. Trattoria Bettino & Bettina at 8 Boulevard des Alliés | 2. Flowers for sale | 3. Door on Rue de la Calade | 4. Flowers on display in the street
From there we walked to Place de l'Evêché to see the neo-Romanesque Saint-Théodorit Cathedral before continuing on to Château d'Uzès (the Duchy). The Château has been home to the Dukedom of Uzès for over a thousand years, making it one of France's oldest inhabited ducal residences, still in the hands of the original family. During Uzès's 16th-century peak, the Duke of Uzès ranked among the most powerful figures in France.
We explored the Château’s mix of architectural styles - from the medieval Bermonde Tower to Renaissance facades. The Bermonde Tower is the keep (or main tower) of the Duchy, or the Duchy Tower - the castle's main defensive tower. This tower is actually one of three that define Uzès, each representing a different medieval power: the King's Tower symbolizes royal authority, the Bishop's Tower (or Clock Tower) represents ecclesiastical power, and the Duchy Tower marks the dukes' influence with its imposing 42-meter keep. A fourth natable tower, the Fenestrelle, rises from the cathedral as a distinctive Romanesque bell tower.
1. Fountain on Rue du Dr Blanchard | 2. Rue du Dr Blanchard | 3. Rue Entre les Tours | 4. Balcony in Place Dampmartin
1. Rue de la Calade | 2. Rue Entre les Tours | 3. Rue Entre les Tours | 4. Window in Uzès
1. Rue Saint Etienne | 2. Cabot de Dampmartin mansion | 3. Rue de L'Epee | 4. Rue du Dr Blanchard
After wandering the medieval streets, we headed to what we thought was our bus stop - only to realize this stop was not available at that time of day. What followed was a slightly panicked speed-walk through those charming cobblestone lanes we'd been leisurely exploring all day, racing to find the correct stop and arriving with just minutes to spare. Nothing like a dash to the bus station to cap off an otherwise perfectly relaxed day. Miss that last bus, and you're staying the night - which, honestly, wouldn't have been the worst fate.
1. Place de l'Évêché | 2. Rue Saint Théodorit | 3. Rue du Dr Blanchard | 4. Door on Rue du Dr Blanchard
SITES IN UZÈS
JARDIN MÉDIÉVAL D’UZÈS (MEDIEVAL GARDEN OF UZÈS)
After the site lay abandoned for decades, the grounds around the King's Tower were revitalized in 1995 with the creation of a medieval garden inspired by monastic gardens and the hortus conclusus (enclosed garden). The restored space now offers visitors a captivating glimpse into the horticultural and medicinal traditions of the Middle Ages.
Location: Rue Port Royal
Entry Fee: Adults: €7 | Children under 12: free | Students under 30, job-seekers, people with disabilities: €4 | Groups (10+ people): €4
CHÂTEAU D’UZÈS & THE DUCHY TOWER
Château Ducal, commonly called "the Duchy", France's first ducal castle, sits on Place du Duché and was built on the site of an ancient Roman camp. The palace remains home to the current Duke, Jacques de Crussol d'Uzès, 17th of his line, who continues the restoration efforts started by his grandmother. Guests can ascend the 135 steps of the Bermonde Tower for sweeping views and explore the furnished apartments, cellars, and courtyards that chronicle centuries of French heritage.
Location: Place du Duché
Entry Fee: For the Tower, plus a guided visit to the Apartments and the Cellars: Adults: €22 | Ages 12-16: €15 | Ages 7-11: : €7 | Children under 7: free | Groups (12+ people): €15
Entry Fee: For the Tower only: Adults & Children: €4
LE MUSEÉ HARIBO
The Haribo Candy Museum offers more than just sweets - it's a genuine museum chronicling the history of the famous brand through rare artifacts, vintage machinery, and historical documents that showcase the evolution of confectionery through the ages.
Location: D981 Pont des Charrettes
Entry Fee (advance online purchase): Adults: €12 | Reduced Rate: €11 | Ages 5-15: : €10 | Children under 5: free
KING’S TOWER
In 1493, King Charles VIII of France acquired the tower through an exchange, giving it its current name. After the French Revolution, it became a district prison that operated from 1795 to 1926. Now part of the Medieval Garden complex, visitors can climb 100 steps to reach panoramic views of Uzès and the surrounding area. The tower features two exhibition rooms and preserves prisoner graffiti, some dating to the 14th century.
Location: Rue Port Royal
Entry Fee: Included in entry to the Medieval Garden.
PLACE AUX HERBES
Place aux Herbes, Uzes’ main square, has served as the heart of community life in Uzès since the Middle Ages. The square is lined with elegant arcaded galleries and medieval buildings that now house charming boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. Every Saturday and Sunday, a vibrant market fills the square with vendors selling local produce, crafts, and regional specialties, making it the town's principal gathering place and social center.
PLACE DE L’EVÊCHÉ
Place de l'Evêché sits at the heart of Uzès's religious quarter, dominated by the neo-Romanesque Saint-Théodorit Cathedral. The square takes its name from the former bishop's palace that once stood here, reflecting Uzès's centuries as an important episcopal seat. It's a quieter space than the bustling Place aux Herbes.
SAINT-THÉODORIT CATHEDRAL & TOUR FENESTRELLE
Saint-Théodorit Cathedral, built on the site of a former Roman temple, has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times since its original construction in 1090, with the current structure dating from the 17th century. Its most distinctive feature is the Tour Fenestrelle (Fenestrelle Tower), a unique 12th-century round bell tower standing 37 meters high - the only circular Romanesque bell tower in France - crowned with colorful glazed tiles and punctuated by paired windows on each level.
Location: 3 Pl. de l'Évêché
Entry fee: Free
1. Rue de la Grande Bourgade | 2. Door on Rue Plan de l'Oume | 3. Place aux Herbes | 4. Rue Plan de l'Oume
1. Balcony on Rue Gaston Chauvet | 2. Rue Gaston Chauvet | 3. Place Belle Croix | 4. Door on Rue de la Grande Bourgade
1. Place aux Herbes | 2. Rue Port Royal | 3. Wall of mosaic floral tiles at the Medieval Garden | 4. Fountain in Place aux Herbes
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
MARKET DAYS
Every Wednesday from 7:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. at Place aux Herbes, focusing primarily on food products.
Every Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. at Place aux Herbes, and until 6:00 p.m. on the boulevards and Rue Jacques d'Uzès. The Uzès Saturday market features over 200 vendors, including fresh produce and artists. A free municipal shuttle runs every forty-five minutes on Saturday mornings from the Mayac district, next to the St. Firmin school, on Avenue Claude Monet, from 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., and provides easy access to the city center. The route and timetables can be downloaded here.
Night Market every Tuesday evening at the Duchy of Uzès, with around fifty exhibitors from the Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard and its surroundings. The night market features artists, painters, jewelry designers, potters, and textile designers.
DINING & DRINKS
La Fontaine
Surrounded by the historic arches in Place aux Herbes, La Fontaine restaurant serves Italian dishes inside the trendy interior, or on its sunny terrace by the fountain.
Location: 21 Place aux Herbes
SHOPPING
Anna Karin Atelier Céramique
Cute little workshop and ceramic shop, selling hand-made porcelain tableware, vases, and candlesticks.
Location: 2C6C+J4
ACCOMMODATIONS
La Maison d'Uzes
Once the home of the Chambon de La Tour family and now a historic monument, La Maisond’Uzes occupies a 300-year-old house. A 17th-century staircase and hidden passage lead to guest rooms with picturesque views over the roofs of the old town.
Location:
TOURISM INFORMATION
Uzès Town Hall and Destination Pays d’Uzès Pont du Gard
A PDF brochure and map is available here. And a PDF map is available here. Additional downloads of a cycling and biking map, an accommodation guide, and a tourist brochure are available here.
Location: 1, place du Duché, with a second entrance at 1, place Albert 1er
HOW TO GET HERE & PARKING
By Car: 42-minute drive. The town is mostly pedestrian-only, so public parking is available outside Boulevard Gambetta, the ring road that circles the town.
By Bus from Avignon: liO Région Occitanie Line 115, departing Avignon - Pem to Uzès, with a duration of 49 minutes. Current stops are listed as le Refuge, La Croix des Palmiers, and the Esplanade (check the schedule as some stops are not available at certain times or directions); the Esplanade is closest to Place dux Herbes. PDF Schedule here. Round-trip tickets can be easily purchased at the station office in Avignon. Please note that food is not allowed on the bus.
Interactive version of the map
