Wandering the Medieval Village of Oppède-Le-Vieux
A view of Maison Gabrielli and the castle (upper left corner) in Oppède-le-Vieux - this view can be found along the Olive Trail hiking trail
Oppède-le-Vieux hangs on the sides of cliffs in the Petit Luberon mountains, nestled in for protection, with views of vineyards and olive trees. This charming, timeless little village, known for its medieval architecture, for the most part feels abandoned. Vieux in French translates to “old.” The castle was once owned by the Counts of Toulouse and later, in the 13th century, by the papacy when the papal palace was located in Avignon. The residents abandoned the village a few hundred years ago, moving to lower farmland, Les Poulivets, or in short Oppède.
1. Maison Gabrielli | 2. Private home doorway on Rue de l’Hôpital | 3. Window detail of L'Oppidum on Rue des Écoles | 4. Entering the village along Aire Sainte Cecile
Traveling with my sister Laura, we had rented a car for a few days to tour the Luberon villages. We made the mistake earlier in the day of attempting to visit Oppède-le-Vieux via a restricted road. That red road sign with a white dash and the words Sauf Riverains means “except for local residents.” We were quickly flagged by one of those local residents and told we needed to turn around. Unable to determine how to access the village, we decided to keep driving. Later in the day, we met a very friendly local while wandering around Menerbes. He convinced us to return to Oppède and suggested we stop by his vineyard or his café, Le Petit Dafè des Jeanne. After a brief stop for directions at the vineyard in Oppède, we found our way to the only access point for tourists, a parking area with an uphill trail into the village through a terraced garden. The garden paths and small staircases open up to the central square, Place de la Croix. The square owes its name to the mission cross, erected in 1759 by the Capuchins of Cavaillon.
1. Looking through the arch porch of the belfry towards the mission cross in the place de la Croix | 2. Door on Rue du Chapitre | 3. Village homes | 4. L'Oppidum on Rue des Écoles
From the village square, wander the narrow cobblestone streets, known as calades, which have been smoothed by centuries of use. On the day we visited, we saw only one couple and restaurant staff prepping for dinner service. We had hoped to sit in the square and enjoy a glass of wine, but unfortunately, they were not yet open and were fully booked for the evening.
We wandered the narrow calades with paths leading up to the ruins of its 13th-century medieval castle and the 12th-century Collégiale Notre-Dame d'Alydon church at the village's peak. The castle had been uninhabited for over a century when an earthquake in 1731 destroyed it.
1. Rue de la Ferraille | 2. Old tower home ruins | 3.Rue de la Ferraille with the old Chambre d’Hotle signage and a statue of St. Peter | 4. Colorful doorway on Rue de la Ferraille
Just off the square is the Maison Gabrielli, a group of four medieval houses built around a courtyard in the 13th and 14th centuries. Although we were unable to access the grounds, it was apparent that new renovations were underway.
Oppède-le-Vieux was the smallest and least touristy village we visited while in Provence, with only a few calades off of the village square. Yet photo opportunities were around every corner. With this medieval village almost entirely to ourselves, it was a picturesque end to a day exploring the Luberon and nearby Menerbes, Bonnieux, and Lacoste.
1. Looking down Rue des Écoles with La Buissonnière, a former bourgeois residence from the 17th century on the left | 2. Ruins along a small pathway | 3. A private home in the Place de la Croix | 4. Narrow calades of Oppède-les-Vieux
PHOTOGRAPHY TIP
Starting in the Place de la Cruiz (the village square), follow Route de Petitons Minguets and head left of the home with the balcony in the photo above, and you’ll find the beginning of Olive Trail, a hiking trail. A short, easy hike will take you to an overlook with amazing views of Maison Gabrielli perched above the olive grove. A similar, but higher, view can be found on the Sainte Cécile Terraces located between the Oppède le Vieux car park and the village by following the Botanical Trail. Hike through botanical gardens, reaching the threshing floor of Sainte Cécile, Aire de Battage, with picturesque views. This hike is less than an hour.
Information on the various trails around the village: https://www.oppede.fr/randonnees-oppede-luberon
1. A view of Maison-Gabrielli from the olive groves along the Olive Hike Trail | 2. Even the ruins are breathtaking | 3. A view from the Place de la Croix | 4. Walking along the perimeter of Maison-Gabrielli
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
MARKET DAY
The village market is held on Saturday mornings at the Place de la Cruiz (the village square)
TOURISM INFORMATION
Oppede Tourism
Oppede Tourism offers information on several hiking trails around the villages
Location: 75, Place Félix-Autard
HOW TO GET HERE & PARKING
With no train station or bus stop, a car is necessary to visit the village unless you’re interested in taking a guided tour. Search for 'Parking Sainte-Cécile' in your maps, which will direct you to the only parking area for day tourists. From here, take the winding path uphill through the Jardins Sainte-Cécile, a terraced park with over 80 species of plants, flowers, shrubs, and typical fruit trees of the Luberon.
