A Photo Tour of Montmartre: Paris's Hilltop Village
1. Rue de l'Abreuvoir | 2. Details at the Basilique du Sacré Coeur | 3. Au Coeur Couronne signage on Rue du Chevalier de la Barre | 4. Three bayed porch of the Basilique du Sacré Coeur
Montmartre remains my favorite corner of Paris, tourist crowds and all. Yes, it's overrun with visitors. Yes, the souvenir shops are relentless. But beneath the commercial veneer lies genuine magic worth discovering.
Perched on a hill in the 18th arrondissement, Montmartre - affectionately called "La Butte" by locals - carries the soul of its bohemian past. Picasso and Dalí once wandered these cobblestone streets, and that artistic spirit still lingers in the air. The white-domed Sacré-Cœur basilica crowns the summit, while below, the legendary Moulin Rouge continues its nightly spectacle, luring everyone from wide-eyed tourists to seasoned night owls.
The real reward comes from simply wandering: steep staircases wind between buildings, opening onto unexpected panoramas of the city below.
1. Basilique du Sacré Coeur | 2. La Taverne de Montmartre on Rue Gabrielle | 3. Le Rendez-Vous des Amis on Rue Gabrielle | 4. Basilique du Sacré Coeur
Montmartre was my destination for the day, with art acquisition as my mission. Years ago, on my first Paris visit, I'd bought an engraving in Place du Tertre that's become one of my most treasured souvenirs - it lives on my kitchen counter, a piece of Paris in my daily life. This time around, I was hoping to find its companion piece. If you’ve read more of this blog, you’ll know that I’m a huge fan of art and Christmas ornaments as souvenirs - items that serve as daily reminders of my travels rather than collecting dust in a drawer.
The Place du Tertre is where Montmartre's artistic soul meets its tourist reality. This tree-shaded square has drawn artists since the 19th century, when Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Van Gogh set up their easels here. Today, dozens of painters still claim their cobblestone patches each morning, transforming the plaza into an open-air gallery.
Inside the Basilique du Sacré Coeur
When I arrived, the square felt smaller than I remembered and decidedly crowded, though its charm persisted. Portrait artists called out to passersby, caricaturists promised five-minute sketches, landscape painters displayed their work on portable racks. The scene was chaotic, easy to dismiss as a tourist trap - and partly, it is.
But there's something stubbornly romantic about this unbroken tradition. I paused to watch them work and saw real talent emerge: the quick confidence of a practiced hand, the way a stranger's expression materialized with just a few deft strokes. Despite the commercialism, the artistic spirit that made Montmartre legendary still flickers here, alive in the hands of artists who've claimed this square as their own.
1. Rue de l'Abreuvoir | 2. Place du Tertre Montmartre | 3. Courtyard at the Jardins Renoir | 4. The Musée de Montmartre on Rue Cortot
Just a short uphill walk leads to the reason many visitors first visit Montmartre: the Sacré-Coeur basilica. Its white Romano-Byzantine domes shine against the sky and can be seen from across Paris. Inside, it is dim and quiet, a stark contrast to the busy square below. The real highlight, however, is the view from its steps - the whole city stretches out before you, from the Eiffel Tower to Notre-Dame, making the climb worthwhile. And if you feel adventurous, make the climb up 300 steps to the Dome, which houses the Savoyarde bell, for even more spectacular panoramic views of Paris.
1. Rue du Mont Cenis stairway | 2. Rue Cortot | 3. Jardins Renoir | 4. Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre
I circled back through the square, spending more time observing the artists at their easels. This visit seemed heavier on caricaturists than I remembered - entertaining to watch, but not what I was searching for. Eventually, I struck up a conversation with one painter whose work caught my eye: delicate watercolors of Parisian gardens, beautifully rendered though priced accordingly. When I complimented her work, she brightened and offered directions to where she typically sets up to paint.
Tucked just below the tourist bustle of Place du Tertre, the Renoir Gardens offer a quieter glimpse into Montmartre's artistic past. These three gardens surround the Museum of Montmartre, occupying the very building where Auguste Renoir lived and worked from 1875 to 1877. During those years, he produced some of his most celebrated Impressionist works, including "Bal du moulin de la Galette."
1. View from the Jardins Renoir | 2. Rue d'Orchampt | 3. Musée de Montmartre | 4. View of Paris from Montmartre
The gardens themselves are a peaceful retreat - winding paths lead through flowerbeds and beneath trellises, while benches invite you to linger. The real charm lies in the view: the gardens overlook the Clos Montmartre vineyard, one of the last surviving vineyards in Paris, its neat rows of vines tumbling down the hillside. Beyond that, the rooftops of northern Paris stretch toward the horizon.
It's a spot that feels worlds away from the crowded square above, a reminder that Montmartre once truly was a village of artists seeking inspiration in these very views.
1. View from the steps of the Basilique du Sacré Coeur | 2. Jardins Renoir | 3. Musée de Montmartre | 4. Chateau d'eau Montmartre (the water tower) as seen on Rue Cortot
The gardens sit on Rue Cortot, just one street over from Rue de l'Abreuvoir - a lane I'd been eager to see in person after encountering it countless times on Instagram. When I finally turned onto it, I understood the obsession. Ivy cascaded down weathered stone walls, cobblestones gleamed in the afternoon light, and there, on the corner, stood La Maison Rose with its famous pink shutters. It's the kind of impossibly charming lane that looks like it was designed specifically for postcards.
There are two versions of Montmartre. One involves racing up the hill, photographing the steps of Sacré-Coeur, buying a crepe, maybe sitting for an overpriced caricature, then leaving with a vague sense that you've checked a box. The other means slowing down and wandering - discovering the Renoir Gardens, stumbling onto Rue de l'Abreuvoir's ivy-covered charm, watching the artists work in Place du Tertre, and understanding why this hilltop neighborhood has captivated painters and dreamers for over a century. I spent my time doing the latter, experiencing the Montmartre that lives beyond the guidebook highlights.
1. View from the Musée de Montmartre | 2. Café Renoir garden seating | 3. Jardins Renoir | 4. Clos Montmartre vineyard behind the Musée de Montmartre
1. Inside the Basilique du Sacré Coeur | 2. Place Constantin Pecqueur | 3. Rue du Chevalier-de-La-Barre | 4. Rue du Mont-Cenis
SITES IN MONTMARTRE
BASILIQUE DU SACRÉ COEUR (BASILICA OF THE SACRED HEART)
Sacré-Cœur Basilica occupies Montmartre's summit at 130 meters. Built between 1875 and 1914 in Romano-Byzantine style, the structure uses Chateau-Landon limestone that whitens with age and weather exposure. Visitors can climb 300 steps to the dome for 360-degree views of Paris, or view the city from the basilica's front terrace.
Basilica Entry Fee: Free
Dome Entry Fee: Adults: €8 | Children under 16: €5 | Groups of 20 or more: €4
Location: 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre
JARDINS RENOIR (RENOIR GARDENS)
The exterior grounds of the Musée de Montmartre. With views of the Clos Montmartre vineyard, the gardens reflect the landscapes Renoir painted during his time here.
Entry Fee: Entrance to the gardens only: €15, or included with entry to the Museum of Montmartre
Location: 12 Rue Cortot
MUSÉE DE MONTMARTRE (MUSEUM OF MONTMARTRE)
A museum of art and history, the Museum of Montmartre occupies the Maison du Bel Air, a 17th-century building just below Sacré-Cœur. Auguste Renoir maintained his studio here, as did Suzanne Valadon, Émile Bernard, and, later, the Fauvist painters Émile-Othon Friesz and Raoul Dufy.
Entry Fee: Adults: €15 | Teachers, Students (18-25), People with disabilities: €10 | Children 10-17: €8 | Children under 10: free
Location: 12 Rue Cortot
PLACE DU TERTRE
Place du Tertre sits in the heart of Montmartre at 130 meters, making it one of Paris's highest public squares. Artists have congregated here since the 1800s, when painters like Toulouse-Lautrec and Renoir worked in the area. Currently, the square hosts around 300 officially licensed street artists who operate under a permit system managed by the city. The space functions as an open-air market for art daily from morning until evening.
SAINT-PIERRE DE MONTMARTRE
Paris's second-oldest surviving church, trailing only the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Built starting in 1133, it once served the prestigious Montmartre Abbey before that institution was destroyed during the French Revolution. Today, it stands as one of two major churches on the hill - though its famous neighbor, the 19th-century Sacré Coeur Basilica perched just above, tends to steal the spotlight.
Location: 2 Rue du Mont Cenis
SQUARE LOUISE-MICHEL
Square Louise-Michel is a public garden located at the base of Montmartre's butte, directly below Sacré-Cœur Basilica. The park features landscaped lawns, walking paths, and benches with views of the basilica above. A vintage carousel operates in the square, offering rides to children and serving as a popular photo spot.
Location: 6, Place Saint-Pierre
1. La Maison Rose on Rue de l'Abreuvoir | 2. Jardins Renoir | 3. Rue de l'Abreuvoir | 4. Au Petit Creux Montmartre on Rue du Mont-Cenis
1. La Bonne Franquette on Rue Saint-Rustique | 2. Water lilies at Jardins Renoir | 3. La Maison Rose on Rue de l'Abreuvoir | 4. Rue Gabrielle
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
DINING
Café Renoir
Located inside the Jardins Renoir, Café Renoir is styled as a winter garden which serves a seasonal snack menu in a tea room setting, with tables inside or in the garden. Paid admission to the gardens is required to visit the café, but I found stopping for a glass of wine in the beautiful garden to be a calm break from the tourist bustle of Montmartre.
Location: 12 Rue Cortot
SHOPPING
Shopping in Montmartre consists mainly of touristy trinkets. And of course, art, portraits, and caricatures are available from the various artists at Place du Tertre. For something meaningful, I’d also suggest the little shops at Sacré-Coeur or the Montmartre Museum.
Musée de Montmartre Boutique
Postcards, books, art prints, and souvenirs related to Montmartre's artistic history. Located inside the Musée de Montmartre.
Location: 12 Rue Cortot
Sacré Coeur Shop
Located inside the Sacré-Coeur Basilica, this very busy shop offers religious icons, crosses, note cards, nativity scenes, and the cutest variety of small hearts made of metal, which I chose to use as ornaments for my Christmas tree.
Location: 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre
1. Sacré Coeur | 2. La Mère Catherine at Place du Tertre | 3. Portrait artist at Place du Tertre | 4. L'artiste on Rue Gabrielle
TOURISM INFORMATION
Paris je t'aime - Tourist Office
HOW TO GET HERE
By Metro:
Abbesses Station (Line 12): The deepest station in Paris, directly in the heart of Montmartre, offering an elevator to avoid its notoriously long spiral stairs. This is the most central station, bringing you directly into the picturesque streets of Montmartre.
Anvers Station (Line 2): Right at the bottom of the hill - walk up Rue de Steinkerque to Sacré-Coeur, or from the base near Anvers/Abbesses, take the Funicular (uses Metro tickets) up to the Sacré-Coeur for incredible views and to avoid stairs.
1. Café Renoir at the Jardins Renoir | 2. La Pétaudière restaurant at 7 Rue Norvins | 3. An artist's palette at Place du Tertre | 4. La Bonne Franquette on Rue Saint-Rustique
