Exploring Lille: A Northern French Experience
1. Place du General de Gaulle with the Carlton hotel | 2. Door at the Jardin de l'Abbaye de Loos at Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau | 3. Jardin de l'Abbaye de Loos | 4. Outdoor dining at Vini Vivi La Bottega on Rue de Pétérinck
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As part of a trip to Belgium, we were looking for day trips out of Brussels. Lille France popped up in our searches, and reading up on Lille, we decided this was a town that would be added to our itinerary. And while Lille was easily reached by a quick 30-minute train ride, and was a charming city, in hindsight some of what we read really over hyped this French town as a must-see destination. So many blogs compared it to a small Paris. Yes, Lille has charm, but it feels more of a residential town than a destination.
1. Books at the Old Book Mart at the Vieille Bourse | 2. The Vieille Bourse (Old Stock Exchange) | 3. Rue Ropra | 4. Facade details of the Vieille Bourse
Traveling with my sister Laura, her husband, and daughter, we took the train from Brussels, arriving early on a Sunday morning. We were surprised to find the city quiet with closed shops and empty squares, so we wandered, waiting for Lille to wake up and come alive. We stumbled upon a small market, browsed the tables and stalls, grabbed brunch at a cozy café, and spent the rest of the day simply exploring on foot.
1. Place Louise de Bettignies | 2. La plus petite maison de Lille | 3. Beffroi de Lille | 4. Place du Général de Gaulle
Details on the ceiling at Maison Méert
One of the highlights of the day was the old book market at Vieille Bourse. Booksellers offer an eclectic mix of vintage novels, comics, antique postcards, old posters, period newspapers, and other collectibles in this charming market that feels like a hybrid between a flea market and a used bookshop. I found stacks of old art engravings and could have bought more, but that seller only accepted cash.
Another must-see for us was the little shop Maison Méert confiserie-pâtisserie, not just for the delicacies they offer, but also for the flamboyant and elegant interior. Even the ceilings are covered with carved gilded details. Méert waffles are the same recipe as those baked in 1849, still made by hand.
Lille turned out to be different from what we expected. While it has its charming corners - the Flemish architecture in Vieux Lille, the bustling Grand Place - we found ourselves wondering what to do next rather than being swept up in discovery. It's a place where locals live and work, which gives it authenticity, but also means it lacks some of the energy and attractions you might hope for on a city break.
Every traveler connects with places differently, and what didn't resonate with us might be exactly what you're looking for. Have you visited Lille? I'm curious if your experience matched ours or if you discovered something I missed. Drop your thoughts in the comments - I'd genuinely love to hear a different perspective.
1. Beautiful packaging ribbon at Maison Méert | 2. Flowers on display at Alchimie Fleurs | 3. Gilded details of Maison Méert | 4. Shopping at Maison Méert - photo by Laura Woodard
1. Rue de la Monnaie | 2. Rue Pierre Mauroy | 3. Blue door in Lille | 4. Rue des Trois Mollettes
SITES IN LILLE
BASILICA OF NOTRE DAME DE LA TREILLE
The Basilica of Notre Dame de la Treille is a Gothic Revival cathedral that took nearly 150 years to complete, finally finished in 1999 with a dramatically modern translucent marble facade that contrasts with its traditional neo-Gothic interior, allowing light to filter through and create an ethereal atmosphere inside.
Location: Place Gilleson
BEFFROI DE LILLE (TOWN HALL)
The Beffroi de Lille, completed in 1932, is an impressive Art Deco tower standing 104 meters tall - the tallest municipal building in France and Europe's highest civilian belfry. Constructed in red brick and concrete to replace the town hall destroyed during World War I, this UNESCO World Heritage site provides sweeping views of Lille from its observation deck, accessible via 400 steps or a partial elevator ride, though oddly enough, it contains no bells despite being a belfry.
Location: The Belfry is accessible by ringing the bell at the large wooden door at the base of the Belfry, on Place Simon Vollant.
Entry Fee: Adults: €7.50 | Reduced online rate: €6 | Children under 12: free with prior booking | Included in the City Pass
JARDIN DE L'ABBAYE DE LOOS (ABBAYE DE LOOS GARDEN)
The Jardin de l'Abbaye de Loos is a small, tranquil park in Vieux Lille entered through a historic stone portal, the last remaining trace of a 12th-century Cistercian abbey founded in 1146 - its former refuge building, once the monks' town residence, now stands as a protected historic monument.
Location: 9 Rue des trois Mollettes
LA PLUS PETITE MAISON DE LILLE
The Smallest House in Lille, the tiny yellow house on Place Gilleson near Notre-Dame de la Treille Cathedral, isn't actually a house but a narrow medieval passageway leading to Place du Lion d'Or, distinguished by its bright yellow facade, single window, and a grimacing mascaron above the door meant to ward off evil spirits.
Location: 128 Pass. Notre Dame de la Treille at Place Gilleson
MARCHÉ DE WAZEMMES
Covered Market: Open every day except Mondays, usually 7 AM - 2 PM.
Outdoor Market: Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays (the biggest day), 7 AM - 2 PM (sometimes until 3 PM on Sundays).
Wazemmes market brings together food vendors from around the world, serving up freshly prepared dishes alongside stalls selling everything from exotic produce to household goods. It's a lively, chaotic mix where you can grab a bite to eat, browse colorful textiles, or pick up fresh ingredients - all in one bustling marketplace.
Location: Place de la Nouvelle Aventure
PLACE DU GÉNÉRAL-DE-GAULLE
Place du Général de Gaulle, known locally as the Grand'Place, is Lille's main square surrounded by beautiful Flemish Renaissance and Baroque buildings, including the ornate 17th-century Vieille Bourse, with the Column of the Goddess monument at its center and lively cafés and markets filling the space around it. A quick 6-minute walk from the train station.
Location: Place du Général de Gaulle
RIHOUR PALACE
The Rihour Palace, one of Lille's oldest monuments and rare examples of Flamboyant Gothic architecture, was built in 1453 by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, and later served as the town hall from 1664 onward. Though fires and wars have taken their toll over the centuries, the 15th-century chapel, monumental staircase, and guardroom - now home to the Lille Tourist Office - still stand as remnants of its former grandeur.
Location: 42 Place Rihour
RUE DE GAND LILLE
Rue de Gand is a lively cobblestone street in Vieux Lille lined with colorful Flemish buildings and packed with restaurants and bars, from traditional estaminets to modern international cuisine - it's also notably one of the few sloped streets in this otherwise flat city.
Location: Rue de Gand
VIEILLE BOURSE (OLD STOCK EXCHANGE) & OLD BOOK MARKET
Lille's old book market is housed within the stunning Vieille Bourse, the city's former stock exchange built between 1652-1653, featuring a courtyard surrounded by 24 identical houses adorned with decorative caryatids, coats of arms, and ornate pilasters. The space hosts antique book sellers and, on summer evenings, tango dancers perform in the courtyard.
Location: Place du Général de Gaulle
VIEUX LILLE
Vieux Lille, the old quarter, is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets lined with colorful Flemish-style houses, where getting lost among the historic alleyways and stumbling upon hidden courtyards is part of the experience.
1. La plus petite maison de Lille | 2. Door at the Jardin de l'Abbaye de Loos at Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau | 3. Place aux Oignons | 4. Place Gilleson
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
DINING
Aux Artistes
This little bar serves up brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
Location: 1 Place du Concert
Maison Méert - Le Restaurant
Within the historic walls of La Maison, offering seasonal cuisine crafted in collaboration with regional producers - farmers, market gardeners, breeders, fishmongers, and fishermen.
Location: 27 Rue Esquermoise
Maison Méert - Le Salon de thé
Tea room offering sweet, gourmet pastries served with fine teas, hot chocolate, or refreshing cold drinks in a beautiful setting.
Location: 27 Rue Esquermoise
SHOPPING
Alchimie Fleurs
Lovely little florist shop tucked into a small alley. I love popping into local florists in Europe as they typically have garden and small home decor items.
Location: 38 Rue Négrier
Les Merveilleux de Fred
Pastry shop showcasing creative specialties, including the Merveilleux cake with a light meringue.
Location: 67 Rue de la Monnaie
Maison Méert
Chocolates, teas, jams, pastries, confectionery, and ice cream in an ornate shop worth visiting just for the decor alone.
Location: 27 Rue Esquermoise
Old Book Market
Set in the Vieille Bourse, the city's former stock exchange. A mix of vintage novels, comics, antique postcards, old posters, period newspapers, and other collectibles in this charming market that feels like a hybrid between a flea market and a used bookshop.
Location: Place du Général de Gaulle
1. Le Sonneur de clochePass | 2. xxx | 3. The Old Book Market inside the Vieille Bourse courtyard | 4. Vieille Bourse on Rue de la Bourse
1. Basilica of Notre Dame de la Treille Place Gilleson | 2. Nouvelle Bourse, the Lille Chamber of Commerce | 3. Door at l’Abbaye de Loos | 3. 'Vieille Bourse
ACCOMMODATIONS
Clarance Hôtel Lille
The rooms overlook an enclosed garden where the restaurant’s organic herbs, fruits, and vegetables are grown. Set in an 18th-century private mansion right in the heart of Old Lille, the hotel preserves its charming ceilings, floors, and antique woodwork.
Location: 32 Rue de la Barre
L'Hermitage Gantois
This beautifully restored property features luxurious rooms with deep soaking tubs. Guests can enjoy the atrium bar’s live piano music, relax by the refreshing pool, and savor a delightful breakfast buffet.
Location: 224 Rue Pierre Mauroy
TOURISM INFORMATION
Office de Tourisme Métropolitain de Lille
Downloadable brochures and several handy maps of Lille can be found here.
Location: Palais Rihour - Place Rihour
1. Shopping in Lille at Alchimie Fleurs | 2. Door in Lille | 3. Place Gilleson | 4. Beautiful doorway in Lille
HOW TO GET HERE
By Train:
From Paris: TGV trains to Lille leave from Paris Gare du Nord. The direct trip from Paris to Lille is about one and a half to two hours with arrival into Garre Lille-Europe. Or into Lille-Flandres station with one stop, which takes about one and three-quarter hours. Bookable online.
By Bus: Bus companies operate to Lille from many cities in France and Europe. The Lille bus station is on Boulevard de Turin, near the Lille-Europe train station. I would not recommend the bus routes as they take more than double the time of taking the train.
By Car: To drive into Lille, you would need to utilize the Park-and-Ride facilities, parking your car and then taking the free transport into the heart of the city. Information can be found here.
