Part French, Part German, All Charm: Strasbourg
1. Hôtel Cour du Corbeau | 2. Courtyard at Cour du Corbeau | 3. Ancien Hôtel de Franck | 4. Petite France area of Strasbourg
I decided to take a solo trip to Paris, but having visited before, I wanted to take a side trip that was close, more intimate, and a destination I could explore on my own. A friend from Germany suggested Strasbourg and Colmar. A quick Google search of images, and I was booking my hotel. With German-style half-timbered houses, it felt like a mix of Germany and France. In fact, Strasbourg has changed hands between France and Germany multiple times since the 17th century, remaining under French control since 1944.
1. Walking along the Passerelle des Anciennes-Glacières, a pedestrian footbridge in the Petite France quarter running along the waterlock system (Schleuse zum Petite France) | 2. Pont de la Spitzmühle at Ponts des Moulins in Petite France | 3. Av Tire Bouchon on Rue des Tailleurs de Pierre | 4. Former Zorn Hotel on Bulach Grand'Rue
The Alsace region of France, known as Grand Est, is a relatively easy two and a half hour train ride from Paris and only 2 miles from the German border. I left early in the day and took a high-speed train from Paris out of Paris Gare de l’Est. Upon arrival at the Strasbourg train station, you’ll find transport into town via tram service. I will confess, though, that I had a hard time figuring out which side of the station I needed to be on for transport into the old town, and purchasing tickets from the CTS tram ticket machines seemed to be problematic for everyone in line.
TIP: Before boarding the train, you must tap your card (or your phone if using the app) on the validation machine. Look for a gray and red podium marked “Validez” near the tracks.
1. Walking the Quai des Moulins in Petite France with a view toward the Maison des Tanneurs | 2. Hôtel Weitz on Quai Saint-Thomas | 3. Hôtel de Franck on Quai Saint-Nicolas | 4. The Pavillon at Hôtel Régent Petite France, as seen from the Pont de la Spitzmühle
I had researched places to stay and found the most beautiful little half-timbered boutique hotel that had me super excited. And it did not disappoint. One of my favorite hotel stays ever, Cour du Corbeau Hotel Strasbourg was just charming. Occupying an early 16th-century building in the heart of Strasbourg, the current owners renovated this abandoned property in the early 2000s. I’ve come to appreciate staying in smaller boutique hotels with a common area to unwind at the end of the day, and I spent my evenings in the courtyard enjoying wine and light snacks. The property serves an optional breakfast buffet with probably the most unique options on a buffet I’ve ever seen. I know I’m touting this hotel heavily, but I promise I received no compensation of any kind. It really was just a super cute and authentic place to stay.
1. Quai Finkwiller in Strasbourg, France, which is part of the University of Strasbourg, photographed from the Pont Saint-Thomas bridge | 2. Alsatian restaurant, Au Pont Saint-Martin, located in the Petite France district | 3. Garden of the Musée de l'Œuvre Notre-Dame on Place du Château | 4. Restaurant Le Gruber - the 16th-century building on Rue du Maroquin is classified as a cultural heritage site
PETITE-FRANCE
The picturesque Petite-France neighborhood is where I decided to explore first. Sitting on an island, Grande Île, the historic area of half-timbered houses is surrounded by a canal. My walk from my hotel to Petite France was an easy walk along the qaui (walking paths along the canals), past the Barrage Vauban, also known as Vauban Dam. Built in the 17th century, it provides flood protection. Visitors can stroll along the top of the dam to enjoy views of the city.
1. Le Bistrot des Copains on Quai Finkwiller | 2. Ivy-covered building | 3. Fountain at the Hôtel Cour du Corbeau | 4. The Ancienne Douane, a 14th-century building on the Grande Île
Petite-France felt very German with small shops and restaurants all within a very friendly and small walkable area. Boat tours are available, but I chose to just wander. And of course, I was on the lookout for Christmas shops, as I try to buy an ornament for my tree on every trip. I stopped for a leisurely lunch and beer at the Restaurant L'Oignon, deciding on the escargot with garlic cream and wild mushrooms in puff pastry. Strasbourg restaurants tend to serve hearty Alsatian cuisine with both French and German influences.
Petite France is one of Strasbourg's most enchanting neighborhoods, a picturesque quarter that captures the essence of Alsatian charm. Located on the Grande Île, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, this historic district sits at the western end of the island where the Ill River splits into several canals.
What makes it special is the stunning collection of half-timbered houses dating from the 16th and 17th centuries, many of which have steep, pointed roofs that once served a practical purpose for tanning, the neighborhood's historic trade. The tanners would dry their hides in the open-air lofts of these tall houses. The buildings lean at charming angles over narrow cobblestone streets and the water, their flower boxes bursting with geraniums in warmer months. Walking through Petite France feels like stepping back in time.
1. Rue des Lentillesin Strasbourg France | 2. Courtyard at the Hôtel Cour du Corbeau | 3. Neo-Renaissance door of the 19th-century presbytery of the Saint-Louis parish at 2 quai Charles Frey; | 4. Rue des Hannetons
1. Hôtel Cour du Corbeau | 2. Chicken Supreme at restaurant La Hache | 3. L'Escabeau by Omnino in Strasbourg on Rue des Drapiers | 4. Gingerbread toy souvenirs for sale
PLÂCE DU CHATEAU
After exploring Petite France and a day trip to Colmar, it was back to Strasbourg, and this day I planned on some sightseeing in the Plâce du Château, the historic city center, and the old town of Strasbourg. Just a quick walk from my hotel I quickly reached Pont du Corbeau Rawebruck, or Raven Bridge, which spans the Ill River and offers some pretty views. The main site here is the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg (the Cathedral of Our Lady), a Gothic cathedral, with a pink sandstone exterior, featuring the Strasbourg astronomical clock. Construction began in 1277 and was completed in 1439. The spire reaches a towering height of 466 ft, with 330 steps to the cathedral platform, which offers panoramic views. Unfortunately, the cathedral was closed to visitors during my visit, so I chose instead to visit the Palais Rohan. Built for Cardinal Armand-Gaston de Rohan-Soubise, Prince-Bishop of Strasbourg, between 1732 and 1742. The palace has been home to Strasbourg Cardinals, as well as Napoleon. The city's Fine Arts Museum moved into the palace in 1889, as well as the Archaelogical Museum in 1913 and the Decorative Arts Museum in 1924.
1. Grand entrance at the Palais Rohan | 2. Interior of the Palais Rohan | 3. Main portal of the Strasbourg Cathedral | 4. Palais Rohan architectural detail
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
ACCOMMODATIONS
Cour du Corbeau Hotel Strasbourg, MGallery Collection
One of my favorite hotel stays ever; this property was just charming. The renovated 16th-century building is located in central Strasbourg with 63 unique rooms and is located near the Place du Château and the Strasbourg Cathedral.
Location: 6-8 Rue des Couples
SHOPPING
A Christmas in Alcase
Cute little shop stuffed with everything Christmas.
Location: 10 Rue des Dentelles
DINING
La Hache
The receptionist at my hotel suggested that I try a cute bistro just across the Raven Bridge. I was able to secure a small spot to dine for one person in a little side counter area at a window, despite not having a reservation. The Chicken Supreme was amazing, served with roasted vegetables. I highly recommend.
Location: 11 Rue de la Douane
1. Window in Petitie France | 2. Droguerie du Cygne hardware store on Grand'Rue | 3. The cathedral of Notre-Dame at Place de la Cathédrale | 4. Maison au 9 on rue Sainte-Hélène
TOURIST INFORMATION
Visit Strasbourg and Visit Alcase
Location: 17 place de la Cathédrale
DIRECTIONS
By Train: Trains to Alcase leave from Paris Gare de l’Est. The high-speed train rates are similar to booking a flight: the closer the travel date, the more expensive the ticket will be. Book early; a last-minute booking can easily reach over $100, whereas planning in advance can be in the $35 range. The trip from Paris to Strasbourg was about two and a half hours with arrival into the Strasbourg Station.
The Palais Rohan, in the Place du Château, is former residence of the prince-bishops and cardinals of the House of Rohan
