Exploring Leiden: The City of Canals and Keys
Nieuwe Rijn (New Rhine) canal in Leiden
We had not planned on visiting Leiden. Traveling with my sister Laura, her husband, and daughter, we had spent the day prior in Delft and absolutely loved it. At some point, we met two friendly residents, and they suggested we consider visiting Leiden, comparing it to Delft. Checking trains out of Antwerp, everything at this last minute was quite expensive, so we arranged for a rental car for the next day, and our plans were set to go to Leiden.
Leiden has some of the characteristics that made us fall for Delft, but I wouldn’t really say the two are similar. While Delft felt intimate and charming, Leiden is noticeably larger and more spread out. The streets are grander and the canals wider.
1. Oude Rijn (Old Rhine) canal | 2. The corner of Vismarkt and Maarsmansteeg along the Nieuwe Rijn (New Rhine) canal | 3. Oude Rijn | 4. Nieuwstraat
Rembrandt's birthplace doesn't rest on its laurels. Leiden has evolved into one of the Netherlands' most captivating small cities, blending its rich artistic heritage with the vibrant energy of the country's oldest university. The statistics are impressive - 13 museums, hundreds of protected monuments, the prestigious Leiden University founded in 1575, historic windmills dotting the skyline, and countless churches bearing witness to the city's role in Dutch history.
1. Sint Sebastiaansbrug bridge | 2. Cafe along the Nieuwe Rijn (New Rhine) | 3. Burchthek, the gate of Leiden's castle, decorated with the Leiden keys and coats of arms | 4. Oude Rijn (Old Rhine) canal
The waterways of Leiden don't just border the old town; they flow directly into its heart, weaving between buildings and creating a network of peaceful channels that reflect the gabled houses above.
What sets Leiden apart is how these canals integrate into daily life. Terrace restaurants perch right at the water's edge, their tables overlooking the gentle flow. You can sit with a coffee or a beer and watch canal boats glide past, close enough to exchange greetings with passengers. There are at least half a dozen of these serene waterways threading through the center, each with its own character and collection of bridges.
Moored traditional sailing vessels on the Galgewater canal
The most beautiful and beloved part of Leiden is where the Old Rhine (Oude Rijn) and New Rhine (Nieuwe Rijn) canals converge. Tree-lined quays host outdoor cafés and boutique shops. Originally dug as defensive moats to protect the expanding city center in the 17th century, Leiden's canals now total 28 kilometers in length. The city has built 88 bridges to help pedestrians and vehicles navigate this intricate waterway network.
Leiden's nickname is "Sleutelstad" - the Key City - and once you start looking, you'll see crossed red keys everywhere: on bridges, building facades, bar entrances, even public bins. The symbol comes from the city's coat of arms, which features two red crossed keys on a white background. These are the Keys of Heaven associated with St. Peter, the patron saint of Pieterskerk, Leiden's grand central church. The emblem dates back to at least the 13th century and has become an integral part of the city's identity, appearing throughout the historic center as a reminder of Leiden's medieval roots.
1. Stadhuis (city hall) on Breestraat | 2. Watersteeg 1-3 | 3. Homes on the Oude Rijn | 4. Molen de Valk windmill
We spent most of our time in Leiden just strolling the main canals, the Oude Rijn (Old Rhine) and the Nieuwe Rijn (New Rhine). We stopped for a leisurely lunch and then continued to Galgewater, a part of the Old Rhine River. The canal is lined with historic buildings and is a popular spot for moored traditional sailing vessels. We then continued on to see the city’s two windmills. While Leiden is known for having 13 often-visited museums, we chose to skip them in favor of just strolling the canals on such a pretty day. While I enjoy museums, I prefer to take photos when the surroundings are so lovely.
1. Nieuwstraat | 2. Hooglandse Kerk gothic church on Nieuwstraat | 3. Home on the Oude Rijn | 4. The Oude Rijn
1. Home on Morssingel canal viewed from Park de Put | 2. Boat on a Canal | 3. Kerkbrug, a traditional cast-iron drawbridge, on the Oude Rijn | 4. Doorway at Nieuwe Rijn 14
SITES IN LEIDEN
BURCHT VAN LEIDEN
Leiden Castle is a shell keep and, in its present form, dates back to the 12th century. The gate of Leiden's castle is called the Burchthek. Decorations of the castle gate are the Leiden keys and the coats of arms of Leiden regents Johan van der Bergh and Johan Goes.
DE VALK WINDMILL
De Valk is a beautifully preserved 18th-century tower mill standing in the heart of Leiden. Built in 1743, this seven-story windmill ground flour for nearly two centuries and now ranks among the best-preserved windmills in the Netherlands.
The museum showcases the miller's life and work across all seven floors, with original tools, furniture, and grinding equipment still in place. The climb to the top rewards visitors with panoramic views over Leiden's rooftops and canals—the same perspective millers used to monitor wind conditions.
HOOGLANDSE KERK
The Hooglandse Kerk is a Gothic church whose oldest sections date to the late 14th century, though most of the current brick structure was built during the 15th century. Originally dedicated to St. Pancras, it now serves as a Protestant Church in the Netherlands.
MOULEN DE PUT WINDMILL
Molen de Put is a historic stone tower mill built in 1619 on Leiden's old city ramparts. Originally used to pump water from the polders, it later ground corn before being restored in the 1980s. The mill sits in a scenic spot in Park de Put.
PIETERSKERK
The Pieterskerk is a late-Gothic Protestant church in Leiden, dedicated to St. Peter and dating back to the medieval period.
STADHUIS VAN LEIDEN
The historic city hall is known for its Renaissance facade, which was rebuilt after a fire in 1929, and has been the seat of the city government since the Middle Ages. Stadhuis van Leiden is located on Breestraat.
1. Hooglandse Kerk | 2. The Nieuwe Rijn (New Rhine) | 3. Homes along a canal | 4. Molen de Put windmill
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
GETTING HERE
By Car: Driving from Antwerp takes about two hours, and from Brussels, it takes approximately two and a half hours, via the E19 and A4 highways.
By Train:
From Antwerp, Belgium - Trains arrive at Leiden Centraal, departing from Antwerpen-Centraal.
From Amsterdam - Trains depart from Amsterdam Centraal.
PARKING
Note that parking in the city center can be challenging and expensive. Tourist Office Leiden has very helpful information on parking options here.
STREET MARKET
Shop for local produce, stroopwafels, and flowers. Open from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays, it is located in Botermarkt, Vismarkt, Aalmarkt, and Nieuwe Rijn.
TOURISM INFORMATION
Tourist Office Leiden
Tourist information, maps, and a shop offering Leiden gifts and souvenirs.
Location: Located opposite Leiden Central Station at Stationsweg 26
SHOPPING
Dille & Kamille
Home goods shop with items for the kitchen, garden, and home, as well as food and holiday items.
Location: Botermarkt 10
Fiori Bloemen
Cute little flower and plant shop. How I wish I could have brought back with me some of the flower bulbs they sell.
Location: Lange Mare 51
Leiden Made
Local gifts handmade by Leiden artisans.
Location: Hooglandse Kerksteeg 10
1. Stadhuis van Leiden (City Hall), located on Breestraat | 2. Oude Rijn | 3. Restaurant De Gaanderij at Nieuwstraat 32 | 4. Hooglandse Kerk as seen from Beschuitsteeg
Homes along the Oude Rijn in Leiden
1. Hooglandse Kerk | 2. Plants for sale at Fiori Bloemen | 3. Homes along the Oude Rijn | 4. Fiori Bloemen flower shop, at Lange Mare 51
1. Watersteeg | 2. Stadstimmerwerf, or City Carpenter's Yard, located at Kort Galgewater 21 | 3. G. Kuperus Wijnhandel on the Nieuwe Rijn | 4. Shops at the corner of Vismarkt and Maarsmansteeg on the New Rhine
