Delft’s Timeless Beauty: More than Just Blue Pottery
1. Vrouwe van Rijnsburger Bridge | 2. Stadsleenbank entry, a former Bank van Lening, on the Burgwal | 3. Private home on Oude Kerstaat | 4. Vrouwenregt along the Oude Delft canal
As an aviation geek, I’ve long wanted to fly KLM Airlines just to be able to take home one of their lovely Delft houses. If you fly international business class on KLM, you are gifted a cute little porcelain house filled with Dutch gin. Each house depicts a real Dutch building, and they’ve been around since the 1950s. And, of course, I was familiar with the classic Delft blue and white porcelain. But that’s about all I knew about Delft. However, when I researched day trips from Belgium, Delft stood out, and the little town immediately went to the top of my list. Traveling with my sister, her husband, and her daughter, we took a train from Antwerp, which should have taken just over an hour, had we not missed our connection in Breda. Be careful when booking trains in Belgium and the Netherlands, as just because a connection is offered does not mean that it’s realistic. Upon arrival at the modern Roosendaal Station in Delft, it’s only about a ten-minute walk to the main square, the Markt.
1. Hippolytusbuurt Gracht | 2. Ceramic map of Delf on Papenstraat | 3. Cheese on display at the Thursday market | 4. Café Kobus Kuch on Beestenmarkt
The Markt in Delft is lined on two sides by brick and stone souvenir shops, storefronts, and lively cafes. At the ends of the large open square sit Stadhuis, Delft, the City Hall, and Nieuwe Kerk or New Church. The gilded City Hall was built in the 16th century, changed over the centuries, and rebuilt in the 17th century. The church and its tower date back to the 15th century. Every Thursday since the 12th century, the Markt has been home to the Delftse warenmarkt, a lively market packed with stalls selling Dutch cheeses, stroopwafels, fruits and vegetables, and international delicacies alongside antiques, Delft pottery, and clothing. Delft, a city and municipality in the province of South Holland, Netherlands, is famous for its iconic blue and white Delft Blue pottery. Also, a Thursday event and a short walk from the Markt, you’ll find the flower market at the Brabantse Turfmarkt (Brabant Peat Market), just off the Old Canal, which runs north to south in the city.
Sausages and meats for sale at the market. The main Delft market is on Thursday, with a smaller market on Saturday
The best way to see Delft is to start at the Markt, and then just wander the canals and streets and explore the squares of this quaint Dutch town. Besides the large Markt, there are several smaller squares. De Beestenmarkt is the most famous. Doelenplein offers cafés perfect for a quiet meal or drinks. Or grab a craft beer at Brouwplein. And as you follow the canals past the bustling squares, the shops and cafes disappear, and you’ll find yourself strolling lovely residential alleys.
1. Stadhuis (City Hall) in the Markt | 2. Installation of skeleton figures created from rubbings made from the ancient tombstones on the floor of the city's Oude Kerk (Old Church) | 3. Weathered building on Voldersgracht Canal | 4. Bicycles, the main mode of transport in Delft, parked along the Burgwal
We chose to give the Markt a good bit of time, with the market in full swing and numerous shopping options. The lively square in itself was such an inviting introduction to Delft. Shopping in Delft is a mix of souvenir, pottery, garden, and antique stores intermingled with modern boutiques. On the hunt for those KLM Airline pottery houses, we found several shops with them in the windows, but really hit the jackpot at Leon Paul Antiques van Geenen on the Voldersgracht. This antique store is packed with both lovely vintage items and charm. We found a large selection of houses here, and the shop owner has them organized by those representing houses in Delft as well as Amsterdam. He was quick to show us a book with descriptions, photos, and the history of the real buildings. It was so much fun doing a treasure hunt for the buildings we had purchased as we wandered through town.
1. Hunting for the actual buildings to match our KLM pottery houses, my niece found hers right away - Photo by Laura Woodard | 2. Books and Delft pottery at Leon Paul Antiques van Geenen on the Voldersgracht | 3. Display at Groen Vingers | 4. De Salamander pharmacy in the Markt
Blue Delft china remains one of the city's most celebrated exports. Royal Delft, also known as De Porceleyne Fles, stands as a hallmark of the city's rich ceramic heritage. Founded in 1653, it's the last remaining factory from Delft's Golden Age, when over thirty potteries produced the distinctive blue-and-white earthenware that made the city famous worldwide. The hand-painted ceramics, inspired by Chinese porcelain, feature intricate designs ranging from traditional Dutch landscapes to elaborate floral motifs. Visitors can tour the factory to watch master painters at work and explore the museum's historical collection.
1. Classic Citroën DS parked along the canal on Molslaan | 2. Courtyard entryway | 3. View of Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) from Voldersgracht | 4. Looking down Trompetstraat to the Nieuwe Kerk
Molen De Roos stands as Delft's sole surviving windmill, the last of eighteen that once dotted the city. Dating from 1679, this working grain mill continues its original purpose, grinding organic flour each week using nothing but wind power - a living testament to Dutch milling heritage.
1. Beestenbrug (Beesten Bridge) at Bestenmarkt and Molslaan | 2. Antique Delft tiles for sale - photo by Laura Woodard | 3. Residential home entryway | 4. Molen De Roos (Rose Mill) on Phoenixstraat
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
GETTING HERE
By Train: From Antwerp, trains depart from Antwerpen Centraal and the journey is about an hour and forty minutes to two hours, depending on the connection time. From Amsterdam, trains depart Amsterdam Centraal with direct trains taking about an hour.
SHOPPING
Antiques and Art Léon-Paul van Geenen
Lots of really beautiful antiques, books, and of course those KLM pottery houses.
Location: Voldersgracht 26
Dille & Kamille
A cute home goods shop with items for the kitchen, garden, and home, as well as food and holiday items. I try to buy a Christmas ornament on every trip, and we found the cutest ornaments here. I purchased some little ceramic Dutch houses as well as glass clip-on ornaments that are tiny bud vases.
Location: Burgwal 5
Drogisterij de Salamander
A cute little drugstore in business since 1782, selling drugstore licorice, candles, drugs, herbal teas, cleaning solutions, shaving tools, and so much more.
Location: Markt 47
Groene Vingers (Green Fingers)
Plant and home decor store with a wide selection of plants, interior accessories, and gifts.
Location: Burgwal 23
Heinen Delftware
Location: Markt 30
Henri Willig Cheese Makers
Location: Markt 43
House of Vermeer
Delft pottery and souvenirs.
Location: Markt 52
Royal Delft Brandstore
Authentic hand-painted Delftware. Beyond the classic blue-and-white pieces, the store features contemporary designs, limited editions, and collaborations with modern artists.
Location: Markt 58
Vermeer Centrum Delft
The painter Vermeer, famous for Girl with the Pearl Earring, called Delft home. You will see references to Vermeer throughout the city. This little shop is attached to the Vermeer Museum. Here we purchased some antique Delft porcelain tiles.
Location: Voldersgracht 21
1. Typical Delft cafe with outdoor seating | 2. Flowers for sale at the market | 3. Bicycles outside Van der Burgh Chocolaad on Vrouwenregt | 4. Colorful doorway
1. Produce for sale at the market | 2. Residential entryway | 3. Groen and Zo on Vrouwenregt in Delft | 4. Window cheese display at Henri Willig Cheese Makers in the Markt
1. Cafes line the Beestenmarkt square | 2. The Stadhuis (town hall) | 3. Window detail of the Stadhuis | 4. Groen Vingers on Burgwal