Mulled Wine and Medieval Charm: Christmas in Old QuÉbec
Place Royale decorated for Christmas
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Québec City has long been on my bucket list. I’d seen photos of the town, and it reminded me so much of Europe, but much closer to home. I happened to find some great nightly rates and decided this was the time to finally go, and started making plans with my sister-in-law, Audrey, for our winter getaway. Flights were trickier. Air Canada Rouge and Air Transat only flew on certain days, so I pieced together Air Canada through Montreal to Québec City, then Air Transat on a direct flight back to Orlando. Soon after, my sister Laura and her husband decided to join us, turning it into a family trip. Our timing centered on the German Christmas Market. Having been to Christmas markets in Europe, I was eager to see how Québec's compared
1. The Breakneck Staircase and Rue Petit Champlain | 2. Le Château Frontenac | 3. Signage at the German Market for Aux Traditions d’Alsace restaurant | 4. Place Royal
The Fairmont Le Château Frontenac did not disappoint. The property is majestic and truly stands sentinel over the city. The hotel was a part of a series of Châteauesque-styled hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway company during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Prominently located on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River, within the Québec historic district, the Château Frontenac is a National Historic Site of Canada.
Our first day in Québec, we immediately headed to the Marché de Noël allemand de Québec – the German Christmas Market. The market is an initiative of the Québec City German Community. The Market is spread out over Québec City with five villages, all themed and designed like a traditional German Christmas market. The market also features The Aux Traditions d'Alsace restaurant offering traditional Alsatian food served in a “lunch counter” format. The first village is located just steps from the Château Frontenac at the Place d'Armes.
1. Château Frontenac rises above Old Québec, viewed from Rue Sous-le-Fort | 2. Le Lapin Sauté exterior | 3. Little Christmas log cabin at Felix-Leclerc Park on Rue Petit Champlain | 4. Cul-de-Sac Stairs
We all loved the way the market was designed and the festive atmosphere. I will say that while you will find products from both Germany and Québec, the booths were mainly food-focused, with products from maple syrup to locally produced mulled wine. I would have loved to see more craft items, and I really had hoped to see Christmas ornaments. Although we did find a Christmas shop the following day, there were no ornaments to be found at the German Market. While we had really planned to spend more time at the market, it turned out that Lower Town was what won us over. The market was fun, but extremely crowded, and food gifts were not what we were looking for.
1. Maison Chevalier on Rue du Marché-Champlain | 2. Bust of James Douglas in the Literary and Historical Society of Québec at the Morrin Centre | 3. Books at the Literary and Historical Society of Québec | 4. Place Royale
The following day, we made Basse-Ville (Lower Town) our focus. Québec City's historic Old Québec unfolds across two distinct tiers: Haute-Ville (Upper Town) perched atop the promontory, and Basse-Ville nestled along the St. Lawrence River below. The Upper Town preserves the city's original fortifications, while the Lower Town hugs the waterfront. These levels are linked by a funicular and the aptly named Breakneck Stairs (Escalier Casse-Cou), a precipitous stairway that plunges between the two quarters. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage, Old Québec is the most intact fortified town north of Mexico.
1. Bar Artéfact window at the Auberge Saint-Antoine hotel | 2. Basse-Ville (Lower Town) and the Château Frontenac in Upper Town, photographed on the QC-136 crosswalk | 3. Rue des Pains-Bénits | 4. Rue Sainte-Pierre
Both the funicular and Breakneck Stairs descend from Place d'Armes in the Upper Town to Petit-Champlain in the Lower Town, one of North America's oldest commercial streets. You’ll find lots of charming shops lining Petit-Champlain. During the holiday season, this street also hosts local choirs as well as circus shows. Parc Félix Leclerc, nestled in the heart of Petit-Champlain, transforms into a winter wonderland with twinkling lights and a fire pit to warm cold hands. Blanketed in snow, the entire quarter takes on the enchanting atmosphere of a Christmas village. Venture further to Place Royale with its Christmas tree and the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, a National Historic Site, and the oldest stone church in North America. This area of the city was by far our favorite, and we returned every day to either shop or dine. There were so many dining options here, far too many for the limited time we were in Québec.
Au 1884 toboggan run and Dufferin Terrace - photo by Laura Woodard
Back at the Upper Town and just outside the Fairmont hotel on Dufferin Terrace, our mission for the afternoon was the Au 1884. Built in 1884, this toboggan slide ranks among the city's oldest attractions. For over 140 years, the wooden toboggan run has been thrilling riders. Secure your token at the ticket office, grab a toboggan, and fly down the chute at speeds reaching 43.5 mph. You can ride single or up to quadruple. This was some serious fun.
Venturing a bit out of the city, dog sledding was on the itinerary for day three. Laura and I, both animal rights advocates, were on the fence about partaking in this activity. We debated back and forth, trying to decide. In the end, after much research, we decided to go and booked with an excursion company that had a good reputation for treating their dogs well. We are so glad we went. This was so enjoyable that we even wanted to book another excursion for the next day. Unfortunately, the snow had melted to the point that sledding was halted for the duration of our stay. You can ride in a sled solo or with a companion. I chose to sit as a passenger while Audrey stood on the runners as the musher, guiding the team. The trail snaked through the snowy woods, and those sled dogs were simply thrilled to be running. The minute the dogs started getting harnessed to the sleds, they were raring to go.
1. Wreath on the Christmas log cabin at Felix-Leclerc Park on Rue Petit Champlain | 2. Window on Rue Sainte-Pierre | 3. View of Kirk Hall from a window at the Morrin Centre | 4. Château Frontenac towering above Rue Sous-le-Fort
That afternoon, we headed back past the city to visit Parc de la Chute-Montmorency and Montmorency Falls. There is parking at both the top and bottom of the falls, or choose to climb 487 steps up the panoramic staircase. During the summer, there is a cable car and zip lining, but in the winter, you can still cross the suspended bridge to the belvedere. After exploring a bit of the nature walk at the bottom, we headed on to Île d'Orléans. Much of the island was closed in the winter, but we still enjoyed the drive around the island countryside with its ancestral homes dating back to the 17th century. Tip: Drive Chemin Royal in a counterclockwise loop. It will take you through 6 charming villages, almost all of which are ranked as some of the prettiest in the province of Québec.
On our final day in Québec, the hotel concierge recommended the Plains of Abraham Loop, a scenic walking/running trail that circuits through the Plains of Abraham park in Québec City. It's a popular route for locals and visitors to explore the historic battleground while enjoying views of the St. Lawrence River. Just beyond the walled city of Old Québec lies this expansive park - the Plaines d'Abraham (Plains of Abraham). Perched high above the St. Lawrence River hundreds of feet below, these heights offered a commanding strategic position that made them the site of two pivotal battles between British and French forces in 1759 and 1760. This was a pleasant but treacherous walk, as a layer of ice lurked beneath all that snow. It snowed on our first day, but then the weather warmed, so there was a lot of ice to navigate throughout the city. But living in Florida, snow is a rare treat we didn't take for granted!
1. Rue du Cul-de-Sac and Château Frontenac in the Upper Town | 2. Red Maple trees - photo by Laura Woodard | 3. Château Frontenac | 4. Rue Sous-le-Fort in Lower Town
1. Place Royal | 2. Montmorency Falls | 3. Morrin Centre | 4. 160 côte du Colonel-Dambourgès - photo by Laura Woodard | 5. Carter Hall on Rue des Jardins | 6. Île d'Orléans | 7. St. Andrew’s Church Kirk Hall | 8. Le Château Frontenac
SITES IN & AROUND QUÉBEC CITY
AU 1884
Entry Cost: $3.91 CAD. Can be purchased online or at the kiosk at Dufferin Terrace. Be sure to purchase your token and grab a toboggan before climbing to the top of the slide.
Location: Place Terrace Dufferin
CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC
Built in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, this grand château-style hotel is named after Count Frontenac, a 17th-century governor of New France. Perched atop Cape Diamond, its copper-roofed turrets and Renaissance Revival architecture make it one of the world's most photographed hotels. Non-guests can explore the ornate lobby, dine in its restaurants, or join a guided tour highlighting its history, including the 1943 wartime conference between Churchill and Roosevelt.
Location: 1 Rue des Carrières
DUFFERIN TERRACE
Boardwalk that wraps around the Château Frontenac, overlooking the St. Lawrence River.
Location: Rue des Carrières
ESCALIER CASSE-COU (BREAKNECK STAIRCASE)
Québec City's oldest outdoor staircase, the Breakneck Stairs traces its origins to the beginning of the French colony. The historic structure features 59 steps that connect the upper Côte de la Montagne with Rue du Petit-Champlain in the lower town.
Location: 5 Esc. Casse-Cou
FUNICULARE DU VIEUX-QUÉBEC
Funicular connecting the Upper and Lower Towns. Travel up or down the cliff face at a 45-degree angle with picturesque views of Lower Town and the Saint Lawrence River.
Information here.
Location: Lower Town entrance in Louis Jolliet House - 16 Rue du Petit-Champlain. Upper Town entrance - Dufferin Terrace near the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
Hours: 9:00am - 9:00pm
Entry Fee: $6 CAD one way. Cash only.
HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF QUÉBEC AT THE MORRIN CENTRE
The Literary and Historical Society of Québec occupies the historic Morrin Centre, a former prison turned library. The building offers tours showcasing Victorian-era reading rooms and original jail cells.
Information here.
Location: 44 Chaussée des Écossais
Entry Fee (advance online purchase): Adults: $18.50 CAD | Seniors over 65+: $16.50 CAD | Ages 9-17 and Students over 18: $16.50 CAD | Children under 9: free
ICE HOTEL
Hôtel de Glace
While not available during the Christmas season, a notable activity worth mentioning if your plans are for after the holidays.
The only ice hotel in North America. Spend the night, visit for the day, or have a beverage at the Ice Bar.
Opening: Sunday, January 4, 2026
Location: Roughly an hour from Old Québec at Valcartier Vacation Village, 2280 Bd Valcartier, Saint-Gabriel-de-Valcartier
ÎLE D’ORLÉANS
A rural island in the St. Lawrence River, 15 minutes from Québec City. The 34-kilometer loop road passes through six villages, farmland, orchards, and heritage homes dating to the 1600s and 1700s.
PARC DE LA CHUTE-MONTMORENCY
Located 15 minutes outside Old Québec, Montmorency Falls drops 83 meters into the St. Lawrence River, making it Québec's tallest waterfall. The park includes a suspension bridge across the top of the falls, staircases with 487 steps, and a cable car (available seasonally) connecting the upper and lower lookouts.
Information here
Location here
Entry Fee in Winter (advance online purchase; on the day we visited, there was no fee): Adults: $9.46 CAD | Seniors over 65: $8.50 CAD | Children under 17: free
Cable Car Rate (if running): Adults: $14.95 CAD | Seniors over 65: $13.46 CAD | Children under 5: free
PETIT CHAMPLAIN
Quartier Petit Champlain, dating to the 1600s, is North America's oldest commercial district. The pedestrian-only streets wind along the base of Cap Diamant, lined with stone buildings housing boutiques, restaurants, and artisan shops.
Location here
PLACE D’ARMES
Place d'Armes is Old Québec's main square, bordered by the Château Frontenac, historic buildings, and the Monument de la Foi. The square marks the site where Samuel de Champlain's early settlement stood in the 1600s.
Location here
PLACE ROYAL
Place Royale served as Québec City's marketplace and commercial hub for over 200 years. The compact square, paved in stone and surrounded by steep-roofed buildings, contains some of the oldest structures in Canada. A bronze bust of Louis XIV reminds visitors that this was once the center of French colonial power.
Location here
PLAINES D’ABRAHAM
This sprawling historic park offers stunning river views, walking trails, and the haunting legacy of the 1759 battle that sealed Britain's conquest of New France.
Location: 835 Wilfrid-Laurier Ave
ACTIVITIES
Christmas is not yet cold enough for some of the winter activities, like snowmobiling.
DOG SLEDDING
Please do your research and book with a reputable, humane outdoor outfitter.
Adventure Inukshuk
This is the outfitter we chose. The sledding was fun, and we felt they were reputable and treated their dogs humanely. In business since 1997, they also offer snowmobiling when there is enough snow.
Rates: starting at $100 for adults
Location: 131 Route de Duchesnay, Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier
HORSE-DRAWN SLEIGH
Écurie Bel-Air
We had planned on going, but there was simply not enough snow. So I mention this outfitter for information purposes. I can not comment on the experience. Sleigh ride experience through the woods of the Québec City region, located 5 minutes from the Québec airport.
ICE SKATING
Place D'Youville skating rink
In the heart of the city - skate past the majestic Saint-Jean Gate, the Capitole de Québec, and Le Diamant theatre.
Open: Mid-November to mid-March
Location: Rue Saint-Jean
Entry Fee: Free
Skate Rental: $8 CAD
Plains of Abraham skating rink
Open: Mid-December to mid-March
Location: Anneau de glace des plaines d'Abraham
Forest Skating Trails Around Québec City
Information here
1. Rue Sous-le-Fort and the Funiculare | 2. Door on Rue Sainte-Pierre | 3. Decor outside Le Lapin Sauté | 4. Bar Artéfact
1. German Market decor | 2. Marché de Noël Allemand de Québec, Giant Puppet Parade - photo by Audrey Liss | 3. German Market Advent Calendar | 4. German Market vendor kiosk decor
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
DINING & DRINKS
Cochon Dingue
Eatery with decor inspired by the Tour de France. This is a sister restaurant to La Lapin Sauté. Laura and Jeff popped in here for breakfast and could not stop raving about it.
Location: Lower Town at 46 Boulevard Champlain and Upper Town at 1014 Rue Saint-Jean
Phone: 418-692-2013
Conti Caffe
Located in Upper Town, this lovely restaurant features Italian cuisine. I chose the Shrimp Newburg with saffron rice, Vichy carrots, and asparagus, while Audrey opted for the Veal Parm.
Location: 32 Rue Saint-Louis
Phone: 418-692-4191
Reservations here
Coteau
Located in the Lower Town of Old Québec in the Relais & Chateaux, Auberge Saint-Antoine hotel, this Michelin-recommended farm-to-table restaurant features local ingredients. Their menus change seasonally, every two months. Their farm, Ferme du Coteau, is located on Île d'Orléans, and grows more than 30 varieties of organic herbs, fruits, and vegetables for the restaurant. This is a prix fixe blind tasting menu and currently ranges from $125 to $190pp, so definitely a splurge.
Location: 10 Rue Saint-Antoine
Phone: 418-692-1022
Reservations here
La Lapin Sauté
Located in the Petit-Champlain district in Lower Town, this restaurant is known for its rustic charm. The name literally translates to Sautéed Rabbit, but you’ll find other options. We ate here for both breakfast and dinner and thoroughly enjoyed both meals. For dinner, the pork shoulder with parsnip purée, glazed carrots, and jus was amazing. I could have come back and had it another night, but we wanted to try other restaurants.
Location: 52 Rue du Petit-Champlain
Reservations here
Les Trois Garçons
Burger bistro serving a variety of cocktails. We paused here to enjoy a drink.
Location: 1084 Rue Saint-Jean
Pub L'Oncle Antoine
Located in Lower Town at Place Royale in a historic building dating back to 1754 with vaulted stone walls, a fireplace, and a speakeasy atmosphere. We stopped by just to grab some drinks and take in the cool interior.
Location: 29 Rue Saint-Pierre
ACCOMMODATIONS
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
Staying at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac puts you at the absolute center of Old Québec. The historic hotel offers 611 rooms ranging from classic accommodations to luxury suites, many with views of the St. Lawrence River or the Old City. The location is unbeatable and the property iconic - Place d'Armes is steps from the entrance, and you're within walking distance of everything in Old Québec.
Location: 1 Rue des Carrières
Auberge Saint-Antoine
Located in the Lower Town, this Relais & Chateaux property is part boutique hotel, part museum. When the property was built, excavations uncovered relics from Québec's French and English colonial periods. These artifacts - cannonballs, pottery, tools - are now displayed throughout the hotel's elegant, contemporary interior, creating a unique museum-hotel experience. We were given a tour of the property and I honestly would have preferred to stay here.
Location: 8 Rue Saint-Antoine
SHOPPING
Boutique Pot en Ciel
Selling fabrics, utensils, and kitchen décor items, this shop features a tableware section and a kitchen section, with many items imported directly from France.
Location: 27 Rue du Petit-Champlain
J.A.Moisan
Founded in 1871, this is the oldest grocery store in North America. Known for its Québec and worldwide food products, it’s old-fashioned decor is reminiscent of an old general store.
Location: 685 Rue Saint-Jean
MARCHÉ DE NOËL ALLEMAND DE QUÉBEC (GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKET)
Modeled after traditional German Weihnachtsmarkts, the German Market features wooden chalets selling European crafts, food, and drinks. Visitors can find German sausages, roasted almonds, mulled wine (Glühwein), and hot chocolate. The market includes live entertainment, carolers, and holiday decorations, creating a festive European atmosphere in the heart of Québec City.
As part of the German Market, the city hosts the La Parade des jouets as well as the Giant Puppet March, with giant puppets of Saint Nicholas and Krampus, accompanied by drummers and musicians all in costume. We were able to see the Giant Puppet March on this trip, and while it was a rather compact parade along Saint-Jean Street and Côte de la Fabrique, the streets were packed with onlookers.
The Christmas market is laid out as five individual villages, each featuring different vendors, food stalls, and holiday attractions. These are located at:
Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville
Jardins de l'Hôtel-de-Ville
Place d'Armes
Rue Sainte-Anne
Place D'Youville
Dates: November 20 to December 23, 2025
TOURISM INFORMATION
Destination Québec cité
Location: 12 Rue Sainte-Anne
Petit Champlain Neighborhood Cooperative
Place-Royale Commission
24 houses, 59 accommodations, and 28 merchants.
1. Maison Langlois door, at 22 Boulevard Champlain | 2. View from the Funiculaire of Lower Town and the St. Lawrence River | 3. Rue du Cul-de-Sac | 4. Door on Rue Sous-le-Fort
1. Snowman at the Plains of Abraham | 2. Île d'Orléans | 3. Dog sledding | 4. Île d'Orléans
HOW TO GET HERE
By Air:
Aéroport international Jean-Lesage de Québec
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By Train:
VIA Rail Canada - Alternatively to flying into the small Québec airport, you can fly into Montreal and catch a train, which is roughly a 3.5-hour trip. Fares are based on demand.
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By Bus:
Orleans Express - Daily coach service from Montreal. Roughly 3 hours.
1. Notre-Dame-des-Victories Catholic Church | 2. Statue of General Wolfe at the Morrin Centre | 3. Coteau Restaurant | 4. Rue du Petit Champlain
